On the UNESCO trail: Cambodia

It’s pitch black and already a tropical twenty degrees as I wipe the jetlagged sleep from my eyes. Less than 24-hours after arriving at my Khmer-inspired boutique hotel on the jungle-fringed outskirts of Siem Reap, I am en route to the largest religious monument in the world – Angkor Wat, the ‘City of Temples.’

My anticipation to see the iconic sunrise over the UNESCO listed stupas climbs along with the ever-increasing temperature, after obtaining an all-access visitors’ pass which must be kept on your person at all times if you want to enter all 400-acres worth of this special site.

Following my guide in the twilight hour over a wide wooden bridge and off the dusty tracks which lead up to the entrance, away from the crowds of twinkling torches, we settle on the steps of one of the outlying temples for an uninterrupted view of the main complex. The sky changes in a matter of minutes from dusky darkness to a dazzling display of pinks and purples, an almost oriental aurora borealis. What seems like only seconds later and the sun is up, illuminating the 12th-century quincunx of towers shaped like lotus buds at the centre of the unusually westward facing temple. Framed by tall palm trees and mirrored in the impossibly still waters of the expansive pond which lies before the Hindu-turned-Buddhist complex, the impact of the vista is twofold.

A hushed awe spreads throughout the site which eventually turns to a shared silence, humbled before a sight of such significance. Not wanting to disturb the serenity, but eager to take a closer look at the bas-reliefs which adorn the stone walls in a counter-clockwise direction, I slowly made my way towards the looming central buildings, which had begun to cast a spectacular shadow over the rest of the site.

Fending off the chattering monkeys as they circled around my ankles, I found peace and quiet again in one of the galleries decorated with devatas and dancing male figures. After detailing the story behind each section, my guide seemed quite happy for me to get lost inside the labyrinth of corridors and complexes enclosed within patterned pillars and towering columns.

Built with more sandstone than all the Egyptian pyramids combined, I only caught a glimpse of the centuries-old City of Temples. It would surely take days, if not weeks, to become better acquainted with the depictions at every turn and familiarise myself with the faded faces in each frieze. Fortunately, an informative and knowledgeable guide will take you to the heritage highlights.

Whilst the central complex of Angkor Wat is certainly a must-see, the desire to live out my tomb raider dreams made Ta Prohm my personal main attraction. Located approximately one kilometre east of Angkor Thom on the southern edge of the East Baray, the Bayon style beauty of the ruins entangled with the roots of spung trees set Ta Prohm apart from the rest of the site.

Tree trunks merge with the temple walls, spreading upwards towards a leafy canopy which seems to cover every stone surface and bring the ancient setting to life. The light is somehow softened here by the botanical surroundings, muting the vanilla tones of the stonework dusted with jade green moss and overhanging plants. Featuring reliefs of meditating monks and temple guardians, an overwhelming feeling of calm washes over me as I take the circular route around what was originally a Buddhist monastery.

Having experienced only a handful of the fifty-something temples scattered around Angkor Wat, I left knowing that I would be back to explore the many more ruins, some of which are still being discovered year on year.